Independent golfing in St Andrews area, the ancient Kingdom of Fife

What to do all day in St. Andrews

On sunny days used books (some great finds here) and plants are sold in the Market Square, middle of Market Street

Tourist Information Centre -- 70 Market Street, which is one of the three main shopping streets along with North and South Sts. Excellent place for orienting yourself to the area. I always make this my first stop. Loads of free material as well as nice stuff to buy, most of it made in Scotland. Pick up a free local map. Tel/01334 472021.

St. Andrews Castle -- With its waveswept backdrop this was the scene of some of the bloodiest battles of the Reformation. See the Bottle Dungeon, hollowed out of rock, from which the only escape was death. History really comes alive here.

St. Andrews Cathedral -- Tour this yourself or go with an organized tour. Climb St. Rule's Tower for a sumptuous view of the town and area. At one time this was Scotland's largest cathedral.

Take a tour of the University-- You no longer can catch a glimpse of Prince William here as he has graduated. But St. Andrews University was a renowned and beautiful academic centre long before William's arrival. Scotland's oldest university, it was an ancient seat of learning and is set amongst elegant ivy-clad buildings and delightful quadrangles and gardens. You are welcome to walk the grounds here at any time and you can also take a student-guided tour during the summer.

	......		......
Enjoying strolling in the lovely grounds of St. Andrews University.

Walkies -- An excellent little booklet available in the Tourist Information Centre is "St.Andrews and East Fife VIllages on Foot." I love this little guide. So many beautiful places to walk here. Our favorite evening stroll is down Murray Park (street with all those B & Bs) to the seafront. If you turn left, you walk along The Scores (street along the seafront) and come to the Old Course. Since in the summer it stays light until very late, there are always golfers coming back down the 17th and 18th holes. The long shadows make the course look magical. On the other hand, If you turn right at The Scores, you come to the University and then the Castle and the harbour.

Shopping -- Market and South Streets are the main shopping streets. It's fun just to stroll up and down both. Here are a few things I've singled out, but you will discover many more as you browse.

Market Street --

#149 is Highland House Kiltmaker. Also on Market Street is Tesco (supermarket), Boots (pharmacy), and an excellent health food store owned by a most helpful and knowledgeable couple, Susanne and Hugh Livingstone. (Hugh is also a fine artist.) The Tourist Information Centre (see above) is on Market Street, and is a good place to begin your day. Market Street is lined with a panoply of shops and eateries--something for everyone. The street is very short so start anywhere and walk up and down both sides.

South Street -- is the other rewarding shopping street. Again, quite short, so browse along both sides of the street. And when you're on the south side, be sure to step back in time and visit #131. J & T Rodger "The Meal Shop" was founded in 1774, so you know it's going to be fascinating! Too varied to be described, it has many items you will never find anywhere else. All sorts of goodies to eat and hard-to-find foods, as well as pet products and everything in between. Bet you can't go in without finding something you must have! A good example of why people like to come to Scotland.

#201 South Street is another example of the traditional "High Street shop." This delectable little produce shop features local items. (The Scottish strawberries are YUM.)

St. Andrews Preservation Trust Museum & Garden, at 12 North Street, is a charming 16th Century house with interesting displays regarding the town's history. There's a lovely little garden where you can sit and relax in this hidden beauty spot.

Guided Walks -- Tourist Information Centre has further details.
	St. Andrews is very picturesque and fascinating, so these walks are enjoyable as well as informative. Led by qualified guides who cover such highlights as the Old Course, Cathedral, Castle, University, etc., the walks last 1-1/2 hours.

.

Old Course Guided Tour -- Ideal for the non-golfer who wants to beome more familiar with the legendary St. Andrews Old Course. The interesting little tour covers the first hole (not all 18) and other aspects you will enjoy knowing about. Saturdays & Sundays in June, and daily in July & August. Tours go every hour from 11-4, and start at the golf shop behind the 18th hole of the Old Course. Small admission fee. The Tourist Info Centre has a little brochure on it.

Byre Theatre -- check with the Tourist Info Centre for schedule. This is a fine theatre, right in town, presenting plays year round. We've seen several well-done productions here.

Craigtoun County Park -- lovely to look at and fun to visit, with boating, a little train, and lots of other outdoor activities. On the outskirts of town, take a bus to it or drive (see your town map).

St. Andrews Botanical Gardens, at the Cannongate. This also you can drive to or take a bus, although many people walk to it. It's clearly signposted and anyone can direct you. Indicated on your town map. Internationally acclaimed 18 acres of eye-filling plants.

West Sands -- the beach running next to the St. Andrews golf courses is not only fun to walk on, horses are often exercised here as well. But it's famous most of all because this is where the great race scene in "Chariots of Fire" was filmed.

The West Sands, looking out onto the beach where Chariots of Fire was filmed, and (below) looking back at town.

Just Northwest of St. Andrews - In Leuchars (follow the A919)

For The Lover of Architecture and History 12th Century Norman Church -- St Athernase "The second finest piece of Norman work in the whole of Breat Britain." Built in 1187 by a crusader, much of the church remains just as the stonemasons left it over 800 years ago. Open April to October, with guided tours on Tuesdays, when their Coach House Cafe is also open. Admission is free, but the upkeep on this architectural treasure is sizable and therefore donations are always welcome. Tel/01334 870 038 www.leucharsstathernase.org.uk

Farther Afield -- but very do-able.

The medieval village of Falkland--the Royal Burgh of Falkland--(near Cupar) with the grandeur of its royal palace sitting in the heart of the village. Royal Falkland Palace, once the country residence of the Stewart kings and queens, where they hunted deer and wild boar in the forests of Fife, is well worth the half-hour or so drive. You'll see the fine gardens with their intriguing nooks and crannies, and the Royal Tennis Court, reputedly the world's oldest and always a favorite of Mary Queen of Scots. Royal Falkland Palace, superb example of Renaissance architecture, definitely deserves a visit. The town itself is a gem, and one of my favorites to stroll around in. Very small, so you can park in the centre (near the palace, which is right in the town centre) and do it all on foot. Lots more about Falkland under Ladybank Golf Club.

Hill of Tarvit Mansion Secluded among rolling hills but only a 15 minute drive from St. Andrews, sits this memorable example of how the super wealthy lived in the past. Not a museum, this is an elegant family home. (Be sure to visit the laundry house.) Run by the National Trust of Scotland, the property is in beautiful condition. Follow the A91 for 10 miles to Cupar, then take the A916 south for a mile or so and watch for signs on your left. Highly recommended. More info at the Tourist Information Centre.

VERY SPECIAL - "The Secret Garden" of Fife
Adjacent to the spectacular Kingsbarns Golf Club (in Kingsbarns, only a few miles south of St. Andrews on the A917) is Cambo Estate Gardens. You will see the signpost pointing left just after you pass the golf course.

Let me tell you about Cambo Gardens, which is often referred to as the East Neuk's Secret Garden. And it is. Cambo Gardens take you back into another era, another century, to a storybook world where all is lovely--a fairytale land of beauty and gentle charm. Utterly tranquil, I had the place all to myself on a foggy May morning. How grateful I am for the dedicated people who maintain the sacredness of this place.

Each time we return to Fife I make a pilgrimage to the "secret garden." Cambo Gardens are exquisite in any season--
Early Spring -- 70 acres of woodland carpeted with snowdrops and other small flowers. Daffodils, too.l
Later Spring (May) -- lilacs and flowering trees
Summer -- roses cascading over the walls, and perenniels
Autumn -- a blaze of color, berries, and in October another magical carpeting of snowdrops.

There is a pleasant footpath from Camgo Garden to the sea. Along the way you'll meet the two Cambo Estate pigs, Holly and Ivy, who work hard to keep some of the area free of weeds. (Don't worry, they are fenced in,) Cambo Gardens gets my highest rating. I do hope you will visit this idyllic corner of our Earth.


Tentsmuir Point
The beach at Tentsmuir Point stretches for many miles, all of which can be walked, and it presents itself with a sudden beauty as you cross over the dunes. This is a place of "landscape wizardry," as their brochure promises--a mix of growth and loss of coastline teeming with lovely wildflowers and other plants, as well as eiders and other birds. And there are grey seals, too.

The first glimpse of the sea once you cross over the dunes.

I cover other towns when Richard reviews their golf courses, and have more suggestions for you there. A non-touristy place, Tentsmuir attracts the Scottish people who come to spend the day. I bring my lunch with me and find it difficult to leave this place of vast panoramas of sea and sand and empty space. If you are a nature lover, Tentsmuir is not to be missed. Admission into the car park is £1--the best bargain around. The St. Andrews Tourist Information Centre can provide you with directions and a brochure, and you will also be able to locate the site on your Ordnance Survey map of the St. Andrews area. You'll find more info and some good photos at the Scotscraig page.

Lots of other worthwhile and delightful things to see and do outside of the town of St. Andrews but yet nearby. Especially refer to my notes on the Crail Craighead page.
____________________________

When you're hungry in St. Andrews

The town of St. Andrews is rich with eateries--everywhere you turn you'll encounter places to eat. From tea shops and cafes for a small bite to fine restaurants, there is something for everyone here. A few minutes spent browsing through the town will provide you with many options. I'm listing a few choices for you, but you'll discover many others.

Special Note - Tay River (near St. Andrews) salmon is some of the world's best. Many of the restaurants serve it.


Nahm-Jim - Excellent Thai food served in a beautiful 17th Century townhouse in the centre of St. Andrews. At #11 Crails Lane, which you'll find by turning right out of the Tourist Info Centre and then turning right again at a tiny alley (Crails Lane) just a few steps away. Very nice. Very popular, so bookings are strongly recommended. Tel: 01334 474000

Vine Leaf Restaurant - 131 South Street. Fine food at higher end prices.

Doll's House - 3 Church Square, next to the library. Good food, interesting menu.

Russell Hotel - 26 The Scores, corner of Murray Park and The Scores. Popular with golfers. Friendly staff.

Byre Theatre - has a very nice restaurant with good wine selection.

The Coffee House - 6A Greyfriars Gardens, off Market St., is filled (and I mean FILLED) with an unimaginable collection of items all relating to coffees and teas. Good coffee cafe in rear of shop.

And a personal favorite of ours -- St. Andrews Links Clubhouse. Although they have a very good restaurant, we prefer the Lounge, where they serve light meals in a very relaxing and pleasant atmosphere. Food is above average, prices reasonable, and the ambience is tops--a large, cheerful, bright room with huge windows in almost every direction. You look out over the Jubilee and New Courses with the North Sea just beyond. The inside can offer interesting views as well, because it's filled with golfers, some of them world-class. (Vijay Singh was there once when we were, for instance.)

St. Andrews Golf Courses now have a second clubhouse, the St. Andrews Eden Clubhouse, also open to the public. An informal restaurant offering great views over the links, especially from the upstairs room. They serve light meals all day.


And if you feel like going a few miles out of town, we can recommend these --

We especially like the Upper Largo Hotel & Restaurant -- The motto of this old country inn is "good food served all day, every day," and it's true. The Upper Largo serves delicious Scottish meals (good seafood is a specialty) with something for everyone, offering excellent value for your money. You can dine in the pub room or in the glass-enclosed conservatory (our own favorite), but either way the ambience is appealing and very relaxed. Easy to find, the Upper Largo Hotel & Restaurant is in the tiny village of Upper Largo, right on the main road (A915) from St. Andrews to Largo, Leven and Lundin Links. The restaurant will be on your left as you round the bend in Upper Largo. Lots of parking. Only about 20 minutes from St.. Andrews. But if you're playing Lundin or Leven golf course, you're only a couple of minutes from this enjoyable place. Telephone 01333 360236.

Heron Gallery & Bistro - Another favourite of ours. In the centre of the picturesque fishing village of Pittenweem just immediately west of Anstruther. Excellent cooked-to-order cuisine in the enticing environment of a colourful art gallery. Very popular, so be sure to book ahead of time. An after-dinner stroll around the tiny town is sure to delight. 15 High Street, phone (0)1333 311014.
www.east-neuk-seafood.co.uk/details.cfm?id38

Dreel Tavern - Picturesque 16th Century inn serving good bar lunches and evening meals. In the heart of Anstruther, at 16 High Street West. Phone 01333 310727 for bookings.

Anstruther Fish Bar and Restaurant - 42 Shore Street in Anstruther, down on the East Neuk. Worth the 25-minute drive if you want a basic fish and chips place and don't care about the atmosphere. They serve haddock instead of the usual cod, and have won numerous awards for it. If you are already in the Crail area, it's just a short hop along the coast to Anstruther.

Drumoig Golf Hotel - The view is quite lovely, the ambience pleasant, and the meals are good. Prices are right, too. Worth the 10 minute drive.

One of our favorite out-of-town restaurants is the Ship Inn in Elie. Down on the south coast of Fife, it is located right on the harbour, has great seafood and nice ambience. Several rooms to choose from. We don't mind the 20-minute drive at all. And if you happen to be in the Leven, Crail, Lunden Links, Elie area for golf anyway, the Ship Inn is nearby. (See photo on Elie page.

Special Note - The "picturebook" fishing villages along the East Neuk southern coast offer many nice tea rooms and small restaurants within art galleries. Pittenweem, Crail, Anstruther and St. Monans are all walking towns, and you will discover delights no matter which way you turn.