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Northern Highlands, land of midnight sun and golf course treasures

(c) 2009, Richard & Mary-Alice Jafolla


The Northern Highlands is a world apart--a land of great beauty, the clans, the late evening sun (in June you can play golf until after 11 PM and then tee off again at 4:30 AM if you wish), history as rugged as the terrain, wild mountain streams, and golf courses that will live in your memory forever. This northern part of Scotland is not as remote as you might think. In fact, it's very accessible and should be part of every independent golfer's golfing experience. It's also the warmest and driest area in the Highlands.

The Royal Burgh of Dornoch is our hub for this area for several reasons--good lodging, a choice of eateries, convenient location for all of the golf courses, and... it just happens to be the home of Royal Dornoch Golf Club, that great star of the North.


Dornoch "skyline" way far north in Scotland
The "skyline" of the quaint burgh of Dornoch, taken from the Struie Course at Royal Dornoch Golf Club. That's the Dornoch Catherdral towering over the town. Note the yellow gorse in the foreground. (How could you miss it!) It grows profusely in the Highlands, and blooms outrageously in the month of May, a lovely time to be here.

Where to stay in the Northern Highlands

Dornoch and vicinity ...

B&Bs
Hillview - Beautiful 4 star B&B, warm and gracious owners, every detail deluxe. In a rural setting on the
Alan and Pat Woodstock, Hillview B&B, Dornoch
Alan and Pat Woodstock
main road into Dornoch yet only 2 minutes' drive to the town centre and Royal Dornoch Golf Club. Private parking and charming gardens. We think it couldn't be more perfect. The B&B where we stay and their breakfast room is pictured on our "Basics" page. The house, originally the home of Andrew Carnegie's chauffeur, has been transformed by Pat and Alan Woodstock (present owners) into a gem. The Woodstocks are not only wonderful people, they are avid golfers who can tell you about all the courses in the area. Just two luxurious rooms that book-up far in advance, so reserve as early as possible.
Phone Pat Woodstock (0)1862 810151
Email - hillviewBB@talk21.com
www.milford.co.uk/go/hillviewbb.html

Highfield House - Well deserving of their 5 star rating. Good location on main road into town centre. Cater to golfers and will arrange tee times for you if you wish, as well as prepare lunch to take with you. A fine, well-established B&B. Visit their website to see all the amenities they offer their guests.
Tel: (0)1862 810909
www.highfieldhouse.co.uk

Auchlea House - In a country setting about 1 mile north of Dornoch, this very nice 4 star B&B is well-priced and will also serve dinner if you reserve in advance. As in all lodging listed here, every bedroom is en-suite.
Tel: (0)1862 811524
www.milford.co.uk/scotland/accom/h-a-1927.html

Fourpenny Cottage - Delightful lodging, a bit farther from town but very close to Skibo Castle, where Madonna and Guy Ritchie were married. Woodsy area, first-rate accommodations, good price.
Phone Julie Board: (0)1862 810859
fourpenny@tesco.net
http://homepages.tesco.net/~fourpenny/index.html

2 Quail Hotel -- an upscale establishment in the town centre. Elegant rooms and prices to match. For a special event...
www.2quail.com

Amalfi B&B -- The only way you could stay closer to Royal Dornoch is by erecting a tent on the first fairway. This well-priced lodging (£30 per person per night) offers 2 spacious bedrooms, each ensuite. Visit their website, and be sure to see "The Dogs' Page." We have not yet personally visited the Amalfi, but will do so the next time we are in Dornoch.
www.amalfidornoch.com


Self-Catering...
NOTE: for stays of a week or more, Richard and I like to "self-cater" whenever we can, because you can cook your own meals if you wish, come and go as you please, and have it all to yourself like your own house. Here are two self-catering places we recommend..


Fourpenny Cottage -- see above

#4 Dornoch Square East -- fine self-catering townhouse just 3-minute walk to Royal Dornoch's 1st tee ! Just off "The Square" in the town centre, tucked behind the police station. Constructed on 3 levels, the top floor is an attractive "great room" with full kitchen (dishwasher & washer/dryer), dining area, and comfortable living area with a library of golf books. Three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom (definitely rare!), make-up the second level. Accommodates 4-5 people, has private parking, and the price is excellent. For info call David Tepper in U.S. 415-956-5593. Email - tcmnav@aol.com

Fairways Dornoch -- self-catering apartment almost across the street from Royal Dornoch golf course in a peaceful cul-de-sac. Ideal for a couple, this bright and cheerful apartment has its own private garden, easy parking, and excellent rates. Contact owners Irene and Douglas Tod at info@fairwaysdornoch.co.uk or phone them at (0)141 955 0644. Their website will give you a good sense of this comfortable flat. www.fairwaysdornoch.co.uk


Staying south of Inverness -- closer to Boat of Garten, Nairn, Nairn Dunbar and the Cairngorm mountains golf courses

Carrbridge, in the Cairngorm mountains Pine Ridge B&B - In the heart of beautiful Cairngorm National Park...
A lovely B&B in Carrbridge, near Aviemore, just 5 minutes off the A9. Shona Rankin has created a B&B of exceptional value. See details on our Boat of Garten page and at her own website, www.pineridgecarrbridge.com. You will not be disappointed in this comfortable traditional Highland home and we are pleased to recommend it to you. Perfect for a golf holiday in this scenic area.

Craigerne House Hotel
Top quality country house hotel. Small, warm and friendly. Deluxe in every way. If you want excellence at moderate prices, you need look no further. Beautiful accommodations in a beautiful part of Scotland. Ideally located for golf and mountain activities, like skiing in winter. Many challenging golf courses of great Highland character are within easy travel.
More details on our Boat of Garten page and of course their own website. www.craigernehotel.com
Craigerne House Hotel, a lovely small country house hotel in the Cairngorm Mountains

When you are hungry in Dornoch

You will discover several eateries right in the centre of Dornoch.

Royal Dornoch Golf Course Clubhouse restaurant is available to you if you've played one of their courses. Michael Carr, renowned local chef, is now the chef here, and we enjoyed the place immensely -- good food and the view over the golf course is a feast for the eyes.

Luigi's on Castle Street is popular for a reason. It's good.

Dornoch Castle Hotel has a garden restaurant, nice for lunch.

Mansfield House Hotel has a good bar menu, which means less expensive pub-type meals.

Sutherland House - our first choice for fine food. Wonderful authentic Scottish dining with warm service. Their excellent chef cooks everything to order. The home-made desserts are exceptional--world's best StickyToffee Pudding!!! Very fine food at fair prices. The Sutherland House also offers a Bar Food menu during the day. For evening meals it's definitely best to call ahead for bookings.
Dornoch town square
Dornoch town square with the Sutherland House restaurant on the right.

Travel a few miles north to Brora and you'll easily find ...
The Quiet Piggy, right in the Brora Railway Station Square. Quite new and already popular, the menu changes almost daily, with fresh produce used in their well-prepared meals. (See Brora for more details.)
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What to do all day around Dornoch

Dornoch has a wonderful aura of the past about it--very small but with everything you'll need for a truly memorable stay. Definitely a walking village, you can cover most of it in a short time. But stroll easily, as almost every building offers something of interest. If your travel companion is playing Royal Dornoch, the best plan is to leave the car right there at the golf course and walk down the street to the corner, where you turn right. In another 100 yards you will be in the town centre. Turn left and begin your walk along the main street and the small streets running off it.

The town is dominated by the Cathedral, which you are free to enter. Up until a few short years ago the Dornoch Cathedral was known for its historical value--it was founded in 1224! Now, of course, it receives many more visitors because it is where Madonna and Guy Richie held their son's christening ceremony. Hollywood and the outside world have discovered Dornoch and the Northern Highlands, but this is a hardy, ancient land...and it remains unchanged. And that's the beauty of it, and the joy and peace of being here in this timeless place.

Dornoch Cathedral in centre of town Dornoch Cathedral, open for visitors every day
The cathedral is visible from almost anywhere in town.

Once you've investigated the cathedral, meander around and savour the local scene. You'll find a few good antique shops, an old-fashioned combination general store and gift shop, called "The Gift Shop," and another unusual emporium called the "Dornoch Pet And Country Store." You can browse freely in any of the shops, where you'll see items you may have never seen before and you'll meet people who are friendly and helpful.

Donald Ross, the great Scottish golf architect, lived in Dornoch, and if you walk onto the little street off the high (main) street in the village centre you can see the plaque on the house he grew up in. Donald Ross "cut his teeth" on the Royal Dornoch course, and later went on to design several hundred (!) golf courses in the United States, most of which contain some reminder of Royal Dornoch.

Dornoch former Bishops Palace, now a hotel Street scene in Dornoch
All of these photos are of scenes in the centre of the village. On the left is the former Bishop's Palace, now a hotel.

Above is the high street (main street) with its historical ambience and brown stone buildings.



Eagle Hotel in Dornoch




On the left is the Eagle Hotel. On the right is one of many interesting signposts you'll see in the UK
Interesting list on Dornoch town signpost !!

History Links Museum -- If you like your history information organized and easy to grasp as well as colourful, walk one block south of the main street to the History Links Museum, tucked behind the Castle Hotel and located on a street called "The Meadows." There are signposts pointing the way. Everything is easy to find in Dornoch, and you cannot get lost. Dornoch is fun to explore by taking the Heritage Trail, which starts at the History Links Museum. But the museum itself is very rewarding. You'll find 7,000 turbulent years packed into one small musuem. Discover Dornoch's fiery past--the treachery and violence of the Picts and the Vikings, the feuding clans and the shameful burning of Scotland's last condemned witch. www.historylinks.org.uk

And when you grow weary of walking around, pop into one of the tea shops in the village for a relaxing cup of tea and some homemade scones, for instance. It's a comfortable, unhurried way to enjoy some time to plan your next move.

The Dornoch Bookshop is a fine place to check out. I always spend a lot of time in here and if you like books, you will too. And speaking of books, I recommend an excellent book about Dornoch and the Highlands golf, and you can purchase it right here in this bookshop--A Season In Dornoch, by Lorne Rubenstein. It will give you a heightened sense of the area and its specialness. Very entertaining reading.


Saturday nights in the summer...Pipe bands and Highland dancers perform in the town centre Saturday evenings in summer. A special Highland treat. It's very light at night in these latitudes.
Scottish pipe band at Dornoch ... Scottish Dancers at Dornoch

In the surrounding countryside and not far --

Visit Dunrobin Castle, near Dornoch
Spectacular Dunrobin Castle, Scottish Highlands most massive residence, overlooks the sea. Built in 1235, it was the baronial home of the Dukes of Sutherland. Fabulous gardens and marvelous daily falconry demonstrations (a "must see.") Dunrobin lies on the main highway A9, just 1/2 mile north of Golspie on the right as you go north.


www.highlandescape.com/dunrobin
Dunrobin Castle is absolutely worth visiting


Carn Liath, ancient burial ground overlooking the sea
Carn Liath

Very impressive remains of a last century BC or 1st Century AD burial ground, called a "broch." High above the sea, a wonderful place to explore and walk. The site is remarkably well-preserved and can be entered. About a mile north of Dunrobin Castle. No signposts but very visible on the east side of the A9. Park on the west side of the highway and follow the path up to where you can cross the A9 safely.
www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/golspie/carnliath
/index.html


Glenmorangie Distillery
The Scottish Highlands have the most and some of the best whisky distilleries in the world. And here, at Tain, south of Dornoch just after the A9 crosses the Firth of Dornoch, you can visit one of the most remowned.
www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/tain/glenmorangie/index.html

Other worthwhile places are listed on the individual golf course pages. Especially see Tain.