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What others say
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Northern Highlands, land of midnight sun
and golf course treasures
(c) 2009, Richard & Mary-Alice Jafolla
The Northern Highlands is a world apart--a land of great beauty, the clans, the late evening
sun (in June you can play golf until after
11 PM and then tee off again at 4:30 AM if
you wish), history as rugged as the terrain,
wild mountain streams, and golf courses that
will live in your memory forever. This northern
part of Scotland is not as remote as you
might think. In fact, it's very accessible
and should be part of every independent golfer's
golfing experience. It's also the warmest
and driest area in the Highlands.
The Royal Burgh of Dornoch is our hub for
this area for several reasons--good lodging,
a choice of eateries, convenient location
for all of the golf courses, and... it just
happens to be the home of Royal Dornoch Golf
Club, that great star of the North.
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| The "skyline" of the quaint burgh
of Dornoch, taken from the Struie Course
at Royal Dornoch Golf Club. That's the Dornoch
Catherdral towering over the town. Note the
yellow gorse in the foreground. (How could
you miss it!) It grows profusely in the Highlands,
and blooms outrageously in the month of May,
a lovely time to be here. |
Where to stay in the Northern Highlands
Dornoch and vicinity ...
B&Bs
Hillview - Beautiful 4 star B&B, warm and gracious
owners, every detail deluxe. In a rural setting
on the
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| Alan and Pat Woodstock |
main road into Dornoch yet only 2 minutes'
drive to the town centre and Royal Dornoch
Golf Club.
Private parking and charming gardens. We
think it couldn't be more perfect. The B&B where we stay and their breakfast
room is pictured on our "Basics" page. The house, originally the home of
Andrew Carnegie's chauffeur, has been transformed
by Pat and Alan Woodstock (present owners)
into a gem. The Woodstocks are not only wonderful
people, they are avid golfers who can tell
you about all the courses in the area. Just
two luxurious rooms that book-up far in advance,
so reserve as early as possible.
Phone Pat Woodstock (0)1862 810151
Email - hillviewBB@talk21.com
www.milford.co.uk/go/hillviewbb.html
Highfield House - Well deserving of their 5 star rating.
Good location on main road into town centre.
Cater to golfers and will arrange tee times
for you if you wish, as well as prepare lunch
to take with you. A fine, well-established
B&B. Visit their website to see all the
amenities they offer their guests.
Tel: (0)1862 810909
www.highfieldhouse.co.uk
Auchlea House - In a country setting about 1 mile north
of Dornoch, this very nice 4 star B&B
is well-priced and will also serve dinner
if you reserve in advance. As in all lodging
listed here, every bedroom is en-suite.
Tel: (0)1862 811524
www.milford.co.uk/scotland/accom/h-a-1927.html
Fourpenny Cottage - Delightful lodging, a bit farther from
town but very close to Skibo Castle, where
Madonna and Guy Ritchie were married. Woodsy
area, first-rate accommodations, good price.
Phone Julie Board: (0)1862 810859
fourpenny@tesco.net
http://homepages.tesco.net/~fourpenny/index.html
2 Quail Hotel -- an upscale establishment in the town
centre. Elegant rooms and prices to match.
For a special event...
www.2quail.com
Amalfi B&B -- The only way you could stay closer to
Royal Dornoch is by erecting a tent on the
first fairway. This well-priced lodging (£30
per person per night) offers 2 spacious bedrooms,
each ensuite. Visit their website, and be sure to see
"The Dogs' Page." We have
not yet
personally visited the Amalfi, but
will do
so the next time we are in Dornoch.
www.amalfidornoch.com
Self-Catering...
NOTE: for stays of a week or more, Richard
and I like to "self-cater" whenever
we can, because you can cook your own meals
if you wish, come and go as you please, and
have it all to yourself like your own house.
Here are two self-catering places we recommend..
Fourpenny Cottage -- see above
#4 Dornoch Square East --
fine self-catering townhouse just 3-minute walk to Royal Dornoch's 1st tee !
Just off "The Square" in the town
centre, tucked behind the police station.
Constructed on 3 levels, the top floor is
an attractive "great room" with
full kitchen (dishwasher & washer/dryer),
dining area, and comfortable living area
with a library of golf books. Three bedrooms,
each with its own bathroom (definitely rare!),
make-up the second level. Accommodates 4-5
people, has private parking, and the price
is excellent.
For info call David Tepper in U.S. 415-956-5593.
Email - tcmnav@aol.com
Fairways Dornoch -- self-catering apartment almost across the
street from Royal Dornoch golf course in a peaceful cul-de-sac. Ideal for a couple,
this bright and cheerful apartment has its
own private garden, easy parking, and excellent
rates. Contact owners Irene and Douglas Tod
at info@fairwaysdornoch.co.uk or phone them at (0)141 955 0644. Their
website will give you a good sense of this
comfortable flat. www.fairwaysdornoch.co.uk
Staying south of Inverness -- closer to Boat of Garten, Nairn, Nairn Dunbar
and the Cairngorm mountains golf courses
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Pine Ridge B&B - In the heart of beautiful Cairngorm National
Park...
A lovely B&B in Carrbridge, near Aviemore,
just 5 minutes off the A9. Shona Rankin has
created a B&B of exceptional value. See
details on our Boat of Garten page and at her own website, www.pineridgecarrbridge.com. You will not be disappointed in this comfortable
traditional Highland home and we are pleased
to recommend it to you. Perfect for a golf holiday in this scenic
area. |
Craigerne House Hotel
Top quality country house hotel. Small, warm
and friendly. Deluxe in every
way. If you
want excellence at moderate prices,
you need
look no further. Beautiful accommodations
in a beautiful part of Scotland.
Ideally
located for golf and mountain
activities,
like skiing in winter. Many challenging golf courses of great Highland
character are within easy travel.
More details on our Boat of Garten page and of course their own website. www.craigernehotel.com |
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|
When you are hungry in Dornoch
You will discover several eateries right
in the centre of Dornoch.
Royal Dornoch Golf Course Clubhouse restaurant is available to you if you've
played one of their courses. Michael Carr,
renowned local chef, is now the chef here,
and we enjoyed the place immensely -- good
food and the view over the golf course is
a feast for the eyes.
Luigi's on Castle Street is popular for a reason.
It's good.
Dornoch Castle Hotel has a garden restaurant, nice for lunch.
Mansfield House Hotel has a good bar menu, which means less expensive
pub-type meals.
Sutherland House - our first choice for fine food. Wonderful
authentic Scottish dining with warm service.
Their excellent chef cooks everything to
order. The home-made desserts are exceptional--world's
best StickyToffee Pudding!!! Very fine food
at fair prices. The Sutherland House also
offers a Bar Food menu during the day. For
evening meals it's definitely best to call
ahead for bookings.
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| Dornoch town square with the Sutherland House
restaurant on the right. |
Travel a few miles north to Brora
and you'll
easily find ...
The Quiet Piggy, right in the Brora Railway Station Square.
Quite new and already popular, the menu changes
almost daily, with fresh produce used in
their well-prepared meals. (See Brora for more details.)
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What to do all day around Dornoch
Dornoch has a wonderful aura of the past
about it--very small but with everything
you'll need for a truly memorable stay. Definitely
a walking village, you can cover most of
it in a short time. But stroll easily, as
almost every building offers something of
interest. If your travel companion is playing
Royal Dornoch, the best plan is to leave
the car right there at the golf course and
walk down the street to the corner, where
you turn right. In another 100 yards you
will be in the town centre. Turn left and
begin your walk along the main street and
the small streets running off it.
The town is dominated by the Cathedral, which
you are free to enter. Up until a few short
years ago the Dornoch Cathedral was known
for its historical value--it was founded
in 1224! Now, of course, it receives many
more visitors because it is where Madonna
and Guy Richie held their son's christening
ceremony. Hollywood and the outside world
have discovered Dornoch and the Northern
Highlands, but this is a hardy, ancient land...and
it remains unchanged. And that's the beauty
of it, and the joy and peace of being here
in this timeless place.
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| The cathedral is visible from almost anywhere
in town. |
Once you've investigated the cathedral, meander
around and savour the local scene. You'll
find a few good antique shops, an old-fashioned
combination general store and gift shop,
called "The Gift Shop," and another
unusual emporium called the "Dornoch
Pet And Country Store." You can browse
freely in any of the shops, where you'll
see items you may have never seen before
and you'll meet people who are friendly and
helpful.
Donald Ross, the great Scottish golf architect, lived
in Dornoch, and if you walk onto the little
street off the high (main) street in the
village centre you can see the plaque on
the house he grew up in. Donald Ross "cut
his teeth" on the Royal Dornoch course,
and later went on to design several hundred
(!) golf courses in the United States, most
of which contain some reminder of Royal Dornoch.
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All of these photos are of scenes in the
centre of the village. On the left is the
former Bishop's Palace, now a hotel.
Above is the high street (main street) with
its historical ambience and brown stone buildings.
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On the left is the Eagle Hotel. On the right
is one of many interesting signposts you'll
see in the UK |
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History Links Museum -- If you like your history information
organized and easy to grasp as well as colourful,
walk one block south of the main street to
the History Links Museum, tucked behind the Castle Hotel and located
on a street called "The Meadows."
There are signposts pointing the way. Everything
is easy to find in Dornoch, and you cannot
get lost. Dornoch is fun to explore by taking
the Heritage Trail, which starts at the History Links Museum. But the museum itself is very rewarding.
You'll find 7,000 turbulent years packed
into one small musuem. Discover Dornoch's
fiery past--the treachery and violence of
the Picts and the Vikings, the feuding clans
and the shameful burning of Scotland's last
condemned witch. www.historylinks.org.uk
And when you grow weary of walking around,
pop into one of the tea shops in the village
for a relaxing cup of tea and some homemade
scones, for instance. It's a comfortable,
unhurried way to enjoy some time to plan
your next move.
The Dornoch Bookshop is a fine place to check out. I always spend
a lot of time in here and if you like books,
you will too. And speaking of books, I recommend
an excellent book about Dornoch and the Highlands
golf, and you can purchase it right here
in this bookshop--A Season In Dornoch, by Lorne Rubenstein. It will give you a
heightened sense of the area and its specialness.
Very entertaining reading.
Saturday nights in the summer...Pipe bands and Highland dancers perform in
the town centre Saturday evenings in summer.
A special Highland treat. It's very light
at night in these latitudes.
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In the surrounding countryside and not far
--
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Spectacular Dunrobin Castle, Scottish Highlands most massive residence,
overlooks the sea. Built in 1235, it was
the baronial home of the Dukes of Sutherland.
Fabulous gardens and marvelous daily falconry
demonstrations (a "must see.")
Dunrobin lies on the main highway A9, just
1/2 mile north of Golspie on the right as
you go north.
www.highlandescape.com/dunrobin |
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Carn Liath
Very impressive remains of a last century
BC or 1st Century AD burial ground, called
a "broch." High above the sea,
a wonderful place to explore and walk. The
site is remarkably well-preserved and can
be entered. About a mile north of Dunrobin
Castle. No signposts but very visible on
the east side of the A9. Park on the west side of the highway and follow the path
up to where you can cross the A9 safely.
www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/golspie/carnliath
/index.html
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Glenmorangie Distillery
The Scottish Highlands have the most and
some of the best whisky distilleries in the
world. And here, at Tain, south of Dornoch
just after the A9 crosses the Firth of Dornoch,
you can visit one of the most remowned.
www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/tain/glenmorangie/index.html
Other worthwhile places are listed on the
individual golf course pages. Especially
see Tain.
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