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Ayrshire
Royal Troon, Turnberry, Prestwick...

Just east of Edinburgh
Scotland's Golf Coast
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Gullane
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Royal Dornoch, Brora, Nairn...

St. Andrews area

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Scottish Seabird Centre
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Details below, under What To Do All Day.


























Shuttletaxi.com
Shuttletaxi -
Want to relax and not bother with driving? These nice people will take you (and up to 7 others!) anyplace you want to go. Click on photo for details.


Scotland's Golf Coast
Birthplace of golf, just east of Edinburgh
©

A hearty welcome to the Golf Coast experience, the area just east of Edinburgh, teeming with delectable delights. In our opinion, more fine golf courses per square mile than anywhere in the world. And we're talking truly fine courses, the legendary Muirfield being but one of a top-choice list. Scotland's Golf Coast is a golfer's paradise. And for the non-golfer, a land of rich rewards--a place you'll hold in your dreams and long to return to again and again. Scotland's Golf Coast is the authentic birthplace of golf, born here in the 1400s, before Columbus discovered America.

The Golf Coast of Scotland is a bonanza for the independent golf traveler.

Beach area at North Berwick, centre of the Golf Coast
North Berwick seafront overlooking the Firth of Forth

Our base on the Golf Coast is North Berwick
, about 20 some miles east of the beautiful capital city of Edinburgh. North Berwick is a lively yet nostalgic town you can easily and quickly get to know. Once a vibrant ferry port as well as a fishing and grain port and popular summer resort, it is now (to us) the perfect place for golf and a good representation of the authentic Scotland. North Berwick is an art centre, with many fine galleries, and is also a great centre for bird-watching. I'm smiling as I write this because I'm about to introduce you to several of my favorite things. But first things first...as always, you'll want to go to the Tourist Information Centre in the town centre, where you will enjoy speaking with Gordon Leslie, former manager of Edinburgh Castle and very knowledgeable. The entire staff is very helpful. While there, you can pick up a copy of "The Essential Guide, Edinburgh & Lothians" (no charge for this VERY useful booklet) and also be sure to buy your Ordnance Survey maps of the area. You will find a good assortment of books on Scotland as well.
Garden in centre of North Berwick This
gorgeous

display is
right in
the centre
of town
Public garden in town centre, North Berwick
North Berwick is a town of flowers...homeowners' gardens as well as public gardens have won numerous awards. The town itself, with its spectacular "North Berwick in Bloom" displays, has been voted best garden town in Great Britain, and it's easy to see why.

Scotland's Golf Coast has more links golf courses than anywhere in the world

Golf course map of Scotland's Golf Coast
North Berwick is located at the top of the map by the #12 flags

Places to stay on Scotland's Golf Coast

Some very fine choices here, all offering a full Scottish breakfast, which is included in the price of the room and will get your day off to a hearty start. You cannot go wrong with any of these B&Bs, all of which are fairly-priced and well rated..

In North Berwick

Glebe House -- We have never stayed at a more beautiful B&B. Gwen and Jake Scott have opened their magnificent home to guests and you will love everything about it. Even the location is perfect--secluded in its own large, peaceful grounds and yet just a 2 minute walk into the heart of North Berwick. If you want to enjoy elegance and warm hospitality and at reasonable rates for such lovely up-scale accommodations, the Glebe House is for you. Rated 4 stars and extremely popular, so book very early. www.glebehouse-nb.co.uk

Glentruim -- A fine B&B in a fine location on Dirleton Avenue, the main street running through town. Just a few minutes' walk to the town centre and West Links. Owners Cathy and Clive Barber will warmly welcome you into this renovated Victorian home with spacious, comfortable rooms (including a family bedroom), all with ensuite or private bathroom. The Glentruim also offers a most pleasant self-catering holiday cottage ( sleeps 4-6) at the back of the property for minimum of one-week stays. The 4 star Glentruim has an attractive website -- www.glentruim.co.uk

No.12 Quality Street -- More than a B&B but without the formality of a hotel, No.12 is all about relaxation and informality with excellent service. This comfortable hotel is very attractive, all new and right in the heart of town. The 11 beautifully-decorated rooms are large with good bathrooms, telephones, and internet access. Golfers are especially catered to, with a special area for storage of golf clubs. And the private car park in the rear is a real bonus. Well done restaurant and cafe bar on the premises. Take a look at their appealing website. www.no12qualitystreet.co.uk

Nether Abbey Hotel -- Small, upscale hotel in the residential area of the main street of town, and just a 5 minute walk into the town centre. The entire building (originally a stately home) underwent a major refurbishment in 2007, with each of the 12 bedrooms individually designed. Very popular with the locals, the hotel takes great pride in their food and drink. You'll appreciate their old-fashioned personal service coupled with all the sophistication you would expect from a city centre restaurant and bar. Be sure to check out the Nether Abbey's website to get a better look at what this they offer.
www.netherabbey.co.uk

Seaholm B & B -- A new and welcome addition to North Berwick. Directly on the seafront, overlooking one of Scotland's most photographed scenes. Warm hospitality in this comfortable original Victorian house. Three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom (not ensuite), has twin beds that can convert into one king bed. The atmosphere is relaxed and the rates are very good. Lorena, the gracious owner/host, will provide evening meals opon request. Wi-Fi is available throughout the house. Stunning location, only a 5 minutes walk from town centre. www.seaholm.co.uk

Just a few minutes from North Berwick

Muirfield Green -- very special cottage ideal for two to four people traveling together. Brand new, with many luxuries. Gilly and John Hendry have created a haven of tranquillity and privacy, perfect for independent golfers. They have thought of everything to make your stay comfortable and memorable, even including evening meals if you wish. Located just outside the gates of Muirfield golf course in the town of Gullane, the entire Muirfield Green cottage can be used as a private 2-bedroom accommodation for the exclusive use of you and your small group. Or it can be used as 2 separate B&B rooms. A gem. Please see more details on our Platinum Page and visit their inviting website www.muirfieldgreen.com.

Faussetthill House -- Longtime favourite on Scotland's Golf Coast, this beautiful B&B in Gullane is so tastefully decorated. Owners/hosts George and Dorothy Nisbet are well-experienced at creating excellence for their guests. Their lodging is well-known and highly recommended, so be sure to book far in advance. No website of their own, so reach them by phone (44) (0)1620 842 396. or by Email faussetthill@talk21.co.uk. A short walk to shops and the Gullane golf courses, Faussetthill House is on the main street of Gullane.

Jadini Garden B&B -- This 3 star lodging in Gullane has a secluded walled garden, very comfortable beds, excellent location, and private parking. Mary Chase, the owner, will let you have use of the kitchen if you take all the rooms. (Nice if you are traveling with others.) And she also has a self-catering 3-bedroom luxury apartment available as a weekly rental. Jadini is located on the charming Goose Green in the heart of the village. www.jadini.com

Drem Farmhouse -- An attractive 4 star large Georgian house with beautifully decorated bedrooms, each of which has a view of the garden. A large sunroom for the guests overlooks the extensive gardens. On the grounds are the remains of a Knights Templar Chapel, and Edinburgh is a short 20 minute train ride from this conservation village of Drem. By car just 3 miles from Gullane and 5 minutes from North Berwick. In addition to B&B lodging, this attractive stone farmhouse offers self-catering (rented by the week) . www.dremfarmhouse.co.uk

Carfrae Farm House B&B -- out of the ordinary for the discernng traveler
This historic Scottish farmhouse is located in the beautiful Lammermuir Hills south of North Berwick, a part of Scotland you probably have missed and which you will long remember. The views, the gardens, the luxury accommodations, and the moderate rates make this the perfect choice for a "getaway" while still being close enough to Edinburgh and the Golf Coast links courses. Owners Dorothy and Hamish Gibson have lived in this area all their lives and are gracious hosts. Visit their lovely website for details. www.carfraefarmhouse.com


Self-catering lodging -- houses or flats you rent by the week

Craigend Cottage - Desirable 4 star home directly alongside North Berwick West Links Golf Course and overlooking the sea. A delightful place to spend a week or more, just a few minutes walk to town centre and train station. Spacious, comfortable, deluxe. Owners Sally and Andrew White have thought of everything when they created this wonderful 3 bedroom accommodation that was originally a wing of a stately mansion. Perfect location. Fabulous views. Very popular, so book early. www.craigendcottage.co.uk

And for GROUPS, we strongly recommend the following six gems, rather than a large hotel. Experience authentic Scottish lodging and you will enrich your stay.

North Berwick Golf Lodge, great place for golfing groups North Berwick Golf Lodge

Exclusive accommodations in a comfortable private space for a group of people who want to be together. Most convenient--a 5 minute walk to the beach and town centre--and so close to some of the world's best links courses. Want 5 star luxury with the freedom of having your own private house? Hosts Tom and Emma Hill have so much to offer you. See Platinum Page and www.northberwickgolflodge.co.uk.

Garleton Lodge Garleton Lodge, overlooking the Golf Coast
On a hill overlooking Scotland's Golf Coast, the view from Garleton Lodge is superb and so are the world-class accommodations, the food and amenities. Offers everything you could desire in a Scottish golfing holiday or any group holliday of any size. As many times as we have visited the Lodge, we always come away saying WOW!!! Likely you will too. Visit www.garletonlodge.com for a complete description of this spectacular lodge, also featured on our Platinum Page.


Private...discreet...luxurious
Green Craig luxurious accommodation, Golf Coast
Green Craig ...a private and exclusive haven for the discerning

This historic Scottish landmark, recently restored, overlooks the Firth of Forth and is adjacent to Craigielaw Golf Club in Aberlady, Green Craig is of the absolute highest standard. For groups only, so you have the entire mansion. Very good value in an exceptional location. See Platinum Page and www.greencraig.com


West Fenton Court Luxury Holiday Cottages

Ideal for golfers and a paradise for walkers. Luxurious cottages part of a stunning restoration of historic farm buildings, original design on the outside with every modern luxury on the inside. For details see Platinum Page and www.westfenton.co.uk.
West Fenton Court, ideal for golfing groups

Fenton Tower -

Fenton Tower, where you stay in a castle

Rare opportunity to stay in an ancient castle restored to absolute luxury and privacy. Perfect for a group of golfing friends,a wedding, family reunion, or any special occasion. World-class hideaway with its own helicopter pad, yet just minutes from the centre of North Berwick. Fabulous views. Details on the Platinum Page and www.fentontower.com


Kaimend -
Magnificent Scottish mansion overlooking the North Berwick golf course and the ever-changing waters of the Firth of Forth. Kaimend is a B & B for groups only, so the entire home is yours. Both the home and the view are stunning. Details at Platinum Page and Kaimend.com
Kaimend, overlooking North Berwick West Links
Good place for a pint

The Auld Hoose - 19 Forth Street, corner of Forth Street Lane. A pleasant, old-fashioned gathering place for the locals, where you will feel comfortable and enjoy meeting the interesting people who frequent this historical, traditional pub. Women and men alike are made to feel very welcome. A great opportunity to sample the simple dignity of a non-touristy, genuine Scottish pub. For a pint or a wee dram, stop in at The Auld Hoose (The Old House).

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Plan a picnic (or pamper your palate)

Gullane Delicatessen -- Purveyors of Fine Wines and Foods
Enter Gullane Deli and you are surrounded by an astonishing array of international foods and wines to please any palate. The personable owner, Mark Cervi, has established a gourmet venue with unusual and hard-to-find items as well as everything you need for a great picnic basket. And creating picnic baskets (hampers) is one of Gullane Deli's specialties. Located in the heart of Gullane--a small town only a few minutes from North Berwick--Gullane Deli is something you'd expect to find in NY or Paris or Rome. The foods and wines are tops, the service is genuinely warm and helpful, the prices very competitive. Allow time to browse. You'll appreciate knowing about the Gullane Deli.
Gullane Deli, in Gullane Gullane Deli
40 C Main St ,Gullane

Across the street from
the 1st tee at Gullane #1.

Tel/ (0)1620 842 134
www.gullanedeli.co.uk
Gullane Deli is packed with delights

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Places to eat on Scotland's Golf Coast

In North Berwick --

The High Street (main street in town) is dotted with pleasant little cafes, tea shops and coffee houses, all serving light food and casual meals. When you are strolling through the town centre, refreshment and drink are never more than a minute away. Too many to mention here, you'll very quickly find your own favourites. For larger meals and more complete restaurants, you can try--

Nether Abbey Hotel Brasserie - 20 Dirleton Avenue, a short walk from town centre. Their restaurant inside the hotel is tastefully designed, but you can also eat outside when the weather is nice. Open for lunch and dinner every day. Best to book ahead. Tel/ 01620 892802.

The Grange - 35 High Street, featuring Scottish/French cuisine.

Osteria - very good Italian cuisine, on the main street (71 High St). Upscale, pricey and very popular, so book ahead. www.osteria-no1.co.uk

Poonthais Thai Cuisine - 7 Westgate (west end of the high st.) Popular and with delightful garden dining in rear.

The Scottish Seabird Centre - at the harbour, an unusual but enjoyable eating place. Bright and cheerful surroundings, with luscious views out over the Firth of Forth. They have good jacket potatoes and a very nice menu, with wine and beer available. You should definitely visit the renowned Seabird Centre anyway, and while you're there you might as well have a nice dining experience. You don't have to pay to enter the building and go into the bistro, by the way. Nor will you be able to resist browsing in their excellent gift shop on the way to and from the dining room.


Dirleton village is only 2 miles west of North Berwick, and high on the "must" list --

The village itself (see below) is a gem -- ancient castle, village green rimmed with quaint houses and gardens, art gallery with tearoom, and now a fine place to eat ...

The Castle Inn --
Bar, bistro, restaurant (and rooms) in the centre of the picturesque village of Dirleton, halfway between North Berwick and Gulllane. All new and already winning highest praises. Overlooking the village green and the 12th century castle, The Castle Inn combines a traditional village pub and beer garden, bistro and restaurant. Open all day, but so popular you must book in advance for dinner. Phone 01620 850 221. www.castleinndirleton.com.The food is good, ambience warm and welcoming, service first-rate, prices excellent.


Out of town but only 5 minutes away in nearby Gullane --
The town is very small, so you will easily locate any of these.

Golf Inn on Main Street in Gullane. Long a favorite of ours. Food is very good, prices are moderate, and the ambience comfortable and attractive. All adds up to a most pleasant dining experience. Best to call ahead to book a table. Tel/ 01620 843259.

The Old Clubhouse, on East Links Road across from the children's golf course in Gullane. Historic place serving pub food. Go early, as it gets crowded.

La Potiniere, on Main Street, is a very upscale gourmet dining experience. Small, intimate dining room where you have your table for the entire evening. Expensive, but definitely worth it if you want a relaxing, epicurean treat. Booking way ahead at this excellent restaurant is a must.Tel/ 1620 843214.

FALKO Konditormeister --
Deserves a category of its own. When in Gullane stop in to this exceptional cafe' offering the most mouth-watering pasteries and breads you can imagine. Eat them here or take them out. In the heart of town on the corner of Main Street and Stanley Rd. Falko's renowned main shop in Edinburgh has been pleasing palettes for years, and now they've created this super addition to Gullane. See www.falko.co.uk
Herzlich Willkommen


Out of town eateries, yet still only 10-14 minutes from North Berwick --

Old Aberlady Inn, on the main street (the A198) running through the quaint town of Aberlady, less than 10 minutes from North Berwick just west of Gullane. This landmark inn is worth the drive if just for its looks alone. But you'll soon discover there's more to enjoy than how it looks. The former owners have returned and offer fine food and drink in a delightful ambience. Eat outside in the garden in nice weather. Or if you like the garden setting but not the direct sun, choose in the glassed-in dining room overlooking the garden. A charming old inn, and the prices are right, too. One visit to their website will convince you that The Old Aberlady Inn should be on your list of where to eat. www.theoldaberladyinn.co.uk

Craigielaw Golf Course Clubhouse, open to the public every day, and for dinner on Saturdays. Incredible views, moderate prices. Very appealing contemporary decor. (See my write-up on the Craigielaw page.)

Whitekirk Golf Course Clubhouse, on the road to Dunbar. Attractive dining rooms. Well-priced food. Attractive ambience.


In Dunbar, about 20 minutes from North Berwick, heading east -

The Rocks
- an upscale restaurant and bar, with excellent chef and pastry chef. Food is delicious. Very popular and people come quite some distances to eat here, so the restaurant has a courtesy bus service to pick you up and bring you home if you wish. Advanced booking is essential. Tel/ 01368 862287. I'm recommending it because it is excellent, But there is one caveat here--the noise level is very high, so if you are looking for conversation or a quiet dining experience, this might not be the place. The Rocks is in Dunbar, on Marine Road at the seafront. Easy to find.

Creel Restaurant - At the harbour in Dunbar, with several awards and much recommendation. Open only a few days of the week and you need to book in advance. See all their prestigious awards and find more info at www.creelrestaurant.co.uk
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What to do all day on Scotland's Golf Coast
The Golf Coast is loaded with delights. Since you'll probably be staying in the town of North Berwick, we'll look there first. You could spend many days investigating just the High Street area, where you'll enjoy abundant tearooms, art galleries, and things like the following. These options are just some of the array of fascinating shops offering local and regional products and gifts --

The High Street of North Berwick North Berwick High Street North Berwick town centre--a great walking town

Stop 'N Shop at #93. An amazing shop that has everything, from hot water bottles to fishing rods to kites to...well, you name it. If you don't see what you want, ask, because they probably have it. We have never been disappointed here. Our thought is that if they don't have it, we don't need it!

The Fisherman's Kitchen - fresh fish market, etc. But it's more than a fine fish market. Check out their fresh food and wines, for instance. Many unique items in this attractive shop.

Lockett Bros -- Wine & Whisky Specialist - Scottish Wine Merchant of the Year 2005
Independent wine merchant with wide selections and good prices. In-store tastings, gift boxes & wrapping, free local delivery, and fun browsing. Friendly, knowledgable, and helpful. If you want to take home some fine single malt whisky, this is the place to shop. www.lockettbros.co.uk









Presence - specialists in Scottish gifts

Thistles - gifts and wonderful kitchenware.

Howdah Coffee & Tea Emporium - shop carrying all that its name implies. Amazing selection of coffees and teas from around the world. You'll need time to browse. Owner really knows his teas and coffees!

Several charity shops (Oxfam, Heart, Red Cross, Cancer, etc.) where we buy used books at great prices. And keep an eye out for antiques in these shops. Many bargains.

Art galleries. North Berwick is renowned as an art centre.

North Berwick Highland Games -- The highpoint of the year for this charming town. North Berwick hosts the 5th largest highland games in all of Scotland, and is definitely an event you will long remember. Pipe (bagpipe) bands from all over the world, all dressed in their tartans. Games, including tossing the caber (akin to a telephone pole), Scottish dancing competitions for all ages, foot races, solo bagpipe competitions, tossing the North Berwick stone (a huge rock) and so much more. Walking stick carvers, selling their beautiful sticks--something anyone who goes walking in the countryside should have. (Richard and I each bought one here, and we use them a lot.) Everything Scottish. Rides, food and drink. Something for everyone. Then in the evening, the grande finale--the pipe bands parade down the hill and through the town. What a great day--an opportunity to see an authentic "highland games." Usually held the first or second Saturday in August. See the Tourist Info Centre for more details, or call John Starr at (0)1620 890 333. Visit their colourful website to get a flavour of this memorable yearly event. www.northberwickhighlandgames.co.uk


Other North Berwick attractions --

Scottish Seabird Centre -- Awarded the 5 Star rating, and with good reason! Not a fou-fou place for tourists or a hyped-up amusement arcade for kids, this is a most wonderful facility for experiencing and learning about puffins and gannets and other birds of the area. The Centre is at the North Berwick harbour and is a serious scientific centre opened in May 2000 by Prince Charles, an avid environmentalist himself. An auditorium features excellent lecturers all summer long, and the Scottish Seabird Centre has already earned a very high reputation internationally as a renowned centre for the study of seabirds. A viewing deck, with telescopes and interactive cameras, allows you to view the nesting of the birds on the islands just off shore without disturbing them. See puffins and gannets up close. www.seabird.org.

Walk the beach

Visit the lifeboat (RNLI) station

Climb The Law -- a huge rock which can be seen from many miles distance, even from across the Firth of Forth in the Kingdom of Fife. A major landmark, it is 612 fee high with a not-too-difficult path to the top. If you make it up there, you'll discover the ruins of an old building up top. I've climbed the Law, and recommend it if you like a good walk. Mostly you climb from the back (south) side, which is not nearly as steep as the north side. Follow signs for the carpark, and set out from there.

Boat trips to Fidra -- to see the puffins

Boat trips to Bass Rock -- to see the gannets.

Internet Service -- Lothian Computer Systems & Internet Cafe, 6 Church Road in the centre of North Berwick. Owned and operated by a very knowledgable and helpful couple, John and Lucia Starr (and assisted by their daughter, Luisa).

Somerfields Supermarket -- We favour the shops in the town centres, where you can find almost anything you need. But just in case you want a fairly good-sized supermarket, there's one on the road leading out of town towards Dunbar.

Tesco Supermarket -- And if you continue just a minute further around the bend you'll find the large market, part of the Tesco chain, complete with petrol station.

Loo of The Year
I know, I know...but it is SO unique. Really, you cannot come to North Berwick without visiting the "Loo of The Year" award-winning public toilet in the town centre. Fresh flowers daily, clean as a whistle, walls festooned with national awards from many years. How could I not include it on my must-see list?


And now for some exceptional places just a wee bit further afield --

Let's begin with an essential for the lover of golf history and tradition--

Archie Baird

Cleek, niblick, mashie, spoon, baffy? No, they're not types of fast food, they are part of the history of golf. One visit to Archie Baird's Heritage of Golf Museum will clear it all up.

Tucked next to the Gullane Golf Club pro shop in the centre of Gullane is one of golfdom's great treasures. Small in size but large in importance, this unrivalled collection is the result of one man's passion for the tradition and history of golf. Rare early golf clubs, balls and all sorts of historical golf mechanisms and memorabilia fill the room--calling out to be noticed. And noticed they will be, for the founder and curator of the museum is here to explain them all. For example, Archie will show you why the very best early golf ball makers could only "manufacture" two per day and how the gutta percha ball not only revolutionized the golf ball but how it forced changes in golf clubs.

Archie Baird is a wellspring of information and colourful stories about the history of golf. The more interested you are in golf history, the more fascinating and the more generous with his time he becomes. Throughout his life, Archie has collected golfing artefacts, many of them one-of-a-kind. Former RAF pilot in WWII, veterinary surgeon, and Captain of Gullane Golf Club, Archie is a member of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers. His wife, Dr. Sheila Park Baird, is the great-granddaughter of Willie Park, Sr., first winner of the Open Campionship.

The Heritage of Golf Museum is for the seriously interested. At present, the only way to visit the collection is by phoning Archie, who is always happy to give a complementary "tour" to those genuinely seeking to explore the rich treasures of golf history. Archie Baird is an expert--engaging and articulate--with a twinkle in his eye as he enthusiastically explains his collection. You can reach him by phoning 01875 870 277. A visit to his museum is a privilege you are bound to appreciate and enjoy.


Preston Mill on the river Tyne in East Linton. After you visit the mill, which is still turning after over 400 years, take the footpath behind it for about 100 yards to the massive 16th Century stone Phantassie Doocot (dovecote).

Hailes Castle, just outside of East Linton, is a special place and will delight any history enthusiast. These are the ruins of the castle where Mary Queen of Scots and her eventual third husband, the Earl of Bothwell, stayed when fleeing after the murder of her second husband (Lord Darnley) in 1567. Bothwell was allegedly a key figure in the murder of Darnley, and some speculate that he abducted Mary and brought her to this castle. After reading several biographies of Mary Stewart, I tend to think she went willingly. At any rate, they married a few days later, although they lived together for only a brief period. (Reading about the history of an area really enhances your visit, and Mary Queen of Scots is an especially fascinating subject.) I do recommend this idyllic spot along the banks of a small river. And the drive into it on the tiny narrow road (usually empty) is especially lovely. Locate it on your Ordnance Survey.

Tantallon Castle -- built in 1375, it was virtually impregnable for many years. You'll realize why when you see the spectacular location! Just east of North Berwick. A must-see.

Museum of Flight -- at East Fortune Airfield near Haddington. Historic aircraft of WWII in huge hangars. If you are at all interested in aviation, place this on your list of things to do. One of the Concorde SSTs is tnow part of the exhibit. A cafe' on the premises. You'll find the museum well signposted throughout the area and it's also on your Ordnance Survey.

Dirleton -- A picturebook village -- Considered by many to be the most attractive village in Scotland, and I have to agree. What a gem. Built around a lovely village green, this is such an unspoiled little piece of heaven that you will want to spend time ambling about and taking in the beauty. Walk down the little lanes, admire the gardens, investigate the church and visit the fine Dirleton Gallery, etc., and of course the superb castle right in the heart of the village. (See below.) I encourage you to make Dirleton part of your itinerary.


Dirleton Castle, on Scotland's golf coast Dirleton Castle --
Our favorite castle of all-time. A gem--the gardens are unbelievable, and you can walk all through the castle for a sense of what life was like then. One of my favorite places, we visit it every time we come to the North Berwick Golf Coast. Just off the main road (A198) a couple of miles west of North Berwick, in the centre of the picture-postcard perfect little village of Dirleton. (More weddings are held in Dirleton Castle than any other castle in Scotland...and there are many, many castles in Scotland!)



Athelstaneford -- another very special, favorite place of mine. If you have any interest at all...ANY...in the history of Scotland, visit this enchanting place. Go to this tiny village--Athelstaneford--and visit the Saltire Flag Heritage Centre, near the site of a very significant battle in 832 A.D. The Picts and the Scots (40 of them) were defending their land against the Northumbrians (800 of them!) led by a chieftain name Athelstan. It was here that the present flag of Scotland, the oldest flag in Europe and the UK, was seen in the sky before the battle. Thus was born the Saltire, the flag which you see flying today. The full story is told in the Flag Heritage Centre. Please be sure to go into the tiny Centre (a former dovecote) at the rear of the church because you will be very moved by its magical presentation. This gets my highest rating. So simple but so creatively done. Only takes 4 minutes and...it's free, although they do have a little box for donations which are always welcome. Open daily. You and whoever is with you will probably be the only ones there. You enter the little dovecot, close the door, and the presentation begins automatically. By now you might have guessed how much I love this enchanting wee place. Everyone I've taken here has felt the same way. A little treasure usually overlooked by tourists, an easy short drive from North Berwick. You'll find it on your Ordnance Survey.

Glenkinchie Distillery Visitor Center - on the way to Edinburgh, in Pencaitland, Tranent. You can visit a working distillery at Glenkinchie, home of "Edinburgh Malt." Telephone: 01875 342004. Pick up a leaflet in the North Berwick Tourist Information Centre.

Dunbar -- a little town dating back to pre-Roman times. Take your time and see all the details. Dunbar centre is small, so there's no fear of getting lost of running out of steam. Gives a feeling of how time has passed a town by. Read the details under our Dunbar Golf Club review.

Yellowcraig Nature Trail -- on the shoreline in Dirleton.


EDINBURGH -- pronounced "Edin-burra" .... www.edinburgh.org
You cannot come to the Golf Coast without visiting this great city. It's easy to see why it's the favourite of so many people, including us. A simple way to get there is by train from North Berwick. A short 35 minute ride takes you smack into the centre of the main shopping district. Some of our favorite places in Edinburgh are....

Edinburgh Castle -- see the Crown jewels of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny, used for the coronation of the Scottish kings. The castle, which dominates the city from its high hill (an extinct volcano), is something you will definitely want to experience. The view from the castle grounds, so high above the city, is fabulous. Edinburgh Castle website has an exhibit about the fact that in 1781 American prisoners were held here during the War of Independence (American Revolution). The website shows a photo of one of the earliest representations of the Stars and Stripes, which was carved on a door of the dungeons. www.historic-scotland.gov.uk Once the site opens, click on "Properties" and then "Edinburgh Castle" and finally "visitors to be taken back to 1781." Edinburgh Castle should be at the top of your "must see" list and deserves a full day.

Royal Yacht Britannia -- It's called a yacht but by anyone's standards it's an ocean liner. I loved every moment of our visit. But then I admit I'm an inveterate ship "freak." Best to pre-book during August. Call (0)131555 556. There's an excellent self-guided tour, filled with history and fascinating tidbits of the royal family, etc.. Another of my favourites in this area.

Palace of Holyrood House -- official residence in Scotland of Her Majesty the Queen, and also was the home of Mary Queen of Scots, whose story is interwoven throughout this part of Scotland. The baroque palace sits at the end of the Royal Mile and is closely associated with Scotland's story past. But it is probably best known as the former residence of Mary Queen of Scots and as the scene of the brutal murder of her secretary Rizzio by her jealous second husband Lord Darnley. (Her first was the king of France.) The bloodstain can still be seen.

Princes Street -- the main shopping street and where you arrive from the train. Pop into Jenners, the world's oldest independent department store. I am not a "shopper" but Jenners is so exceptional that I always stop in when we're in Edinburgh. They have things you cannot find anywhere else. Very "old-fashioned" with extremely courteous service. You will enjoy just browsing through, even if you don't buy anything. (Although it's hard to resist.) And their cosmetic department alone is worth the trip. This is one of the few shopping experiences I will ever recommend.

National Gallery of Scotland -- at the Mound in city centre. Excellent collection of paintings, classical to Impressionists.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery -- 1 Queen Street. Very renowned, very well done.

Royal Botanic Gardens --Inverleith Row. For a lovely, relaxing day. It's free, and one of the best in the world.