A Stiff Golf Challenge (especially in a stiff breeze)

Do you like a challenge? How about this one--I challenge you to shoot your handicap on this golf course. Odds are you won't come close. This is one tough test of golf. With a strong wind, it's very, very tough. And situated as it is right next to the sea, it's almost always windy. Anyone who shoots his handicap is rare. Hosting the Fife Stroke Play Championship the best score was 77! These are the finest golfers in the most famous golfing area of Scotland and the best they could manage was 6 over par. That's a tough golf course! (I don't know what the weather was like on that specific day, but I'll bet it was windy!) Craighead is easily the equal of any of the Open Championship qualifying courses in the area and I feel it will soon be added to the rota.

You are always aware of the sea on this terrific golf course. This and the Balcomie course next door constitute the best one-two punch in golf.

Founded in 1786, The Crail Golfing Society is the 7th oldest golf club in Scotland. The Craighead Links is the second of their courses. The first and more famous Crail Balcomie links is one of my all-time favorite courses and one of the best kept secrets in the world of golf. (I have a separate write-up on it.) The new Craighead links were completed in 1998. Considering the second St. Andrews course was opened in 1898 and it's called St. Andrews NEW Course, any golf course in Scotland as young as the Craighead links is considered an embryo! Be that as it may, this is a really fine layout--a tough but fair one--and one I absolutely recommend.

Don't pass up the Crail Balcomie links to play this one. But if you are looking for a well laid out, imaginative golf course with wind and natural beauty abounding, one that will test your game to the utmost, this may be the one for you. And it was designed to be different from the Balcomie course so you won't be playing the "same" course with a different name. Together the Balcomie and the Craighead links constitute a tandem that is, for the money, the best one-two punch I've ever seen.
This course is routed so that the wind is constantly hitting you from a different angle. Situated as it is on the Fife Ness, which is the very tip of a piece of land with the North Sea on one side and the Firth of Forth on the other, winds are an ever-present challenge. The first tee is high above the sea and beach and the views are spectacular, giving the golfer a 100 mile radius of viewing. This layout is not as hilly as its older, adjoining sister, but the variations of elevations are subtly utilized to create imaginative holes. It's best if you can arrange a match with someone familiar with the course because many holes put a premium on position. A great drive to the wrong side of the fairway is not as good as a so-so drive on the correct side. Position golf is rewarded. When I played with a member he was extremely helpful and probably saved me from 3 or 4 bogies.

Craighead starts out with a par 5 that, if the wind is in your face (which it usually is), needs three good shots to make the green. The green, like many on the course, is the inverted saucer shape that requires careful entry lest you roll off the back. The second is a favorite of mine-- a severe dogleg right, it requires an accurate drive of sufficient length or else you have to come in over deep bunkers tucked close to the green. Without a good drive it's very difficult to par.

The greens run true but some of them have so many undilations you may think you're putting on a giant green potato chip..

Great Greens -- The greens are terrific. There are some holes with more humps and bumps than a fat lady in a bikini. The 5th, a 213 yard par 3 with a huge hump on the front of the green, looks as if it was laid out by Quasimodo. The 6th makes you feel you are putting on a huge green potato chip (crisp, in the UK). The 12th has a big dip on the left side of the green. The 17th is the "spoiler" hole. The green is severely tiered so that a ball landing on the wrong tier will be a truly challenging putt. This hole, by the way, is my favorite. It's rated only the eighth most difficult, and I'm not sure why because according to Alasdair Busby, the former secretary of the club, it has destroyed more cards than any other on the course and is a holy terror with the wind blowing. At 197 yards you are hitting over monster bunkers to a severely tiered green that falls off front, back and sides. The only way I parred it was to make a 90 foot putt (yes, certainly I measured it, wouldn't you?)

There's no way to roll your way onto the green at the par 3, 17th as the bunkers completely block your path.

These bunkers mean business. Making a sand save is cause for celebration. (Guess whose ball is in the bunker?)

Make note of the flag position and consult your yardage book on every approach. These greens force you to aim carefully lest you end up with an impossible putt. Other greens are more subtle with interconnected undulations that require a long read and steady nerves. I found that my read behind the ball was much different than my read over the ball. Too often after deciding on the line, I'd change my mind when I was over the ball. Trust your read behind the ball. Analyze the putt from all sides, decide on your line, then trust your decision and hit the ball where you decided to aim.

Also, be aware that most of the greens are crowned, that is they fall off on some or all sides. The impact of this is that anything a bit long or a bit short will just roll off the green and you will have a devil of a time chipping back up.

Wind Will Affect You -- Unless you're a long hitter, it's probably a good idea to play from the yellow tees. The back tees have three par 4s over 460 yards--one of which is 487 yards. Of course some of these are from elevated tees but nevertheless, they are quite long. Most mid-handicappers can't get there in two unless there is a strong wind behind them. If the wind is in their face these are par 6s! The par 3s from the championship tees are 233 yards, 198 yards, 197 yards, and 160 yards. Again, if you're a mid-handicapper, you'll be using woods or even drivers on some of these holes. If there is any kind of wind in your face, on a few of the par 3s you'll be using your driver just to lay-up! I play to a 12 handicap and play the middle tees, finding them challenging enough and all I can handle.

When I first played Craighead in 2002, the member I was playing with had a small wind gauge and he measured the wind at a steady 20 mph with gusts to 30. It was challenging to say the least and made for an interesting day. I was using driver on par 3s and driver/3 wood/wedge on long par 4s. In fact, I drove 10 yards past the green on the 10th hole! (Okay, okay, so it's only 283 yards from a very elevated tee and the wind was behind me but let me tell you, it feels soooo good to drive the green on a par 4!) When I played this year the wind was blowing "only" 10 to 15 MPH, but still it affected club selection drastically.

There are terrific views of the ocean from many holes, so even if you're having a bad golf day it will not be a good walk spoiled. Give yourself a treat and play this course if you have the opportunity. I played it for the first time in 2001 and again in 2002 and 2003. Now I consider it a "must play" when I'm in the area. When you play it I know you'll agree--but be sure to bring your game.

Golf Nook Scotland rating --a very enthusiastic BIRDIE.

Green Fees - March 24 thru October 31
Weekday: Round - £32
All day - £45
Weekend & Bank holidays: Round - £40
-- All day - £55
November 1 thru March 23 - £20

Important Note: The "All Day" fee allows you to play two rounds of golf for the day. Be sure you're clear on these All Day fees, because it means you don't have to play both rounds on this one course. You can play both the CRAIGHEAD course and the adjoining BALCOMIE course (see separate write-up) that same day. Two distinctly different courses and both high calibre. Now that's an amazing bargain.

Trolley hire - £3 for 1 round, £5 for Day ticket
Power Caddie - £6 for 1 round, £10 for Day ticket
Caddies - £35
Buggy hire - £25 (Medical certificate required).
If no medical certificate, £25)
Club hire £22

Catering Prices:
Full Package (coffee,hot roll, soup & sandwich, high tea - £13.75)
Afternoon Start (soup & sandwich, high tea) £11.25
Midway break (soup & sandwich) - £4
High tea - £7.95
Coffee & hot roll (on arrival) £2.75
Coffee & biscuits (on arrival) £1.75

Note: The "All Day" fee allows you to play two rounds of golf for the day. However, you don't have to play both rounds on this one course. You can play both the CRAIGHEAD course and the adjoining BALCOMIE courses that same day. That's an amazing bargain.

Scorecard

Hole	Hole Name	Champ	Medal	Par	Blue	SI	Ladies	Par	SI
1	East Neuk	492	471	5/4	407	9	407	4	5
2	Windmill Corner	398	373	4	329	7	329	4	3
3	Balcomie Castle	328	294	4	267	17	267	4	17
4	Hollow Flats	459	433	4	386	1	389	4	13
5	H.M.S. Jackdaw	233	213	3	175	11	175	3	11
6	Barracuda Way	557	523	56	476	5	476	5	1
7	Kilmonen	198	166	3	148	15	148	3	15
8	Stringbag Alley	487	469	4	401	3	401	4	9
9	Craig Heid	379	359	4	277	13	277	4	7
	Out	3531	3292	36/35	2866		2866	35
10	Fife Ness	303	283	4	283	16	233	4	14
11	The Muir	362	317	4	281	6	281	4	6
12	Foreland Head	346	316	4	279	12	316	4	12
13	Cat Ha Brae	160	140	3	108	18	108	3	18
14	Lang Man's Grave	422	414	4	358	2	358	4	2
15	Danes Dike	554	516	5/4	428	4	428	5	4
16	Isle of May	393	373	4	307	14	307	4	10
17	Signal Point	197	174	3	129	8	129	3	8
18	Constantines Way	460	425	4	383	10	383	3	16
	In	3197	2958	35/34	2556		2543	35
	Out	3292	3292	36/35	2866		2866	37
	Total	6250	6250	71/69	5422		5409	72

The Pro, Graeme Lennie, is a member of The Shivas Irons Society and has also been voted by his peers as the Captain of the PGA Scottish region (quite an honor, as you can imagine).

Graeme is an outstanding source of information about not only his own two courses, but about all of the courses in the area. If you are going to be around for a while and want to play the "must plays" in and around Crail and St. Andrews, talk to Graeme. And if your game is not quite what it should be, Graeme is one of the finest instructors in Scotland. He'll diagnose your problem quickly and help you to have a better golfing holiday in Scotland.

Miscellaneous Notes: Overlooking the Firth of Forth and the North Sea, the view from Crail's clubhouse is dramatic. It's a good place to have a drink or get some good bar food after your round. The clubhouse is also available to visitors who wish to change or shower. There is a practice range available to visitors and 3 buggies (electric carts). You can rent a trolley (pull cart) for £3. It's not hilly like the adjoining Balcomie course, so you shouldn't have any trouble toting your bag around.

Directions: Take the A917 from St. Andrews into Crail (about 9 miles.) At centre of town turn left on Marketgate and follow the road all the way to the end (Fife Ness) for the golf courses. Follow signs to clubhouse.

Crail Golfing Society
Craighead
Crail, Fife
KY10 3XN

Telephone: Pro: Graeme Lennie (0)1333-450960
Secretary: (0)1333-450680
Fax: (0)1333 450 416
Website (newly redesigned and very inviting): www.crailgolfingsociety.co.uk
e-mail: mailto:craiggs.hotmail.com

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What To Do All Day
© 2005, Richard & Mary-Alice Jafolla

Some of my favorite places to visit are down in this enchanting area. But we'll start at the golf courses. Because the two Crail golf courses are in such a spectacular location, right at the elevated corner of land where the Firth of Forth meets the North Sea, I had to experience some of the courses myself. It was a raw day, with the Saltire (Scottish flag) standing straight out in the whipping wind. I could see from my elevated position virtually the entire layout of the Balcomie course. The Craighead course is located somewhat behind the Balcomie course, so I walked the first two holes to get a better perspective. Yet it was enough to give me a taste of how beautiful and how challenging the courses are.

After visiting the courses, wind your way back to the centre of Crail and park the car. You'll want to stop into the Tourist Information Centre in the heart of town because they have good info on local points of interest. [SPECIAL NOTE--in any town you visit, always look for the while letter "i" on a dark blue background. This is the tourist bureau.]

Picturesque Crail Harbour
Photo courtesy of www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk

Crail dates from prehistoric times and has much of interest, so you'll want to get started exploring. Turn left out of the Tourist Info and walk onto the High Street. Leave your car where it's parked and walk along the High Street (the main street of every town is referred to as the "high street."), turning left down Castle Street. Wind down to the harbour. There are signposts marking the way. Crail was once an important fishing port, and you'll enjoy the splendid view over the picturesque harbour and the Firth of Forth.

A visit to this and any of the otherquaint fishing villages is like traveling back through time. Many artisits and photographers are attaracted by the ancient town of Crail. Don't be afraid to explore the tiny lanes and streets. It's literally impossible to get lost because every turn leads you to either the harbour or the High Street. It's all very close and small. This area of the Kingdom of Fife is called the East Neuk (east corner) and has some distinctive features on the houses. As you walk, keep your eye out for 1)forestairs (outside stairways), 2) crow (corbie)-stepped gables, 3) marriage lintels above the doors or built into the walls, which show the initials of the first owners and the date of the building or their wedding.

The Kirk -- A lovely, intriguing historical church in the town centre. Visit it. It's just up the street from where you will park.

If You're Game To Go A Little Farther Afield --

Kellie Castle -- 7 miles from Crail, on B9171, just 3 miles north of Pittenweem. Locate it on your map and follow the signposts. The roads are empty here, so it's a quick hop. This is a superb 14th Century castle containing a fascinating Victorian nursery, an old kitchen, and a beautiful organic walled garden. My niece and I had planned to spend an hour there, and we ended up spending three! You'll be glad you went.

Cambo Secret Garden -- I already spoke of in our Kingsbarns write-up. If you love flowers, don't miss it.

Scotland's Secret Bunker -- On the B940 just 4 miles west of Crail. Again, consult your map and follow the signposts. Here is the command centre from where the government and military would have run the country in the event of nuclear war. You can now visit the facility, which is hidden beneath a Scottish farmhouse. A tunnel from ihe house leads to 24,000 square feet of secret facilities, 100 feet underground and encased in 15 feet of reinforced concrete. Built on two levels, the Secret Bunker contains two cinemas, a cvafe', an operations room, an RAF & Royal Ovserver Corps Centre, sleeping quarters, and much more. Open daily from April to November. Check them out at www.secretbunker.co.uk.

Anstruther -- This delightful little fishing village a few miles west of Crail, in addition to its Scottish Fisheries Museum, is the site of one of my favorite places to fisit, a place unknown to most visitors--the Royal National Lifeboat station. There are over 200 of these amazing lifesboat stations covering the entire coastline of the UK and Republic of Ireland. They are fascinating to visit and to learn all about the incredible rescues made by their courageous crews. This is all volunteer work and their boats are held in very high esteem by the people of Great Britain. The boats themselves are incredible, very high-tech and extremely costly. You really have to see one to appreciate it. Anyway, Richard and I always stop and visit an RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) site whenever we come upon one, and I heartily recommend this to you. It's a piece of Britain you might not ordinarily get to see. When the lifeboat centres are open there is always at least one person there to give you a personal tour. They are eager to show off their boat.

Scottish Fisheries Museum -- At the Anstruther harbour not far from the Lifeboat Station. A very well done exhibit.

And if you're hungry while in Anstruther, don't forget the award-winning Anstruther Fish Bar & Restaurant at 42 Shore Road for basic fish and chips.

Or if it's just a cup of tea you're looking for, by all means stop in the Honeypot Tearoom, 6 High Street in Crail, near where you left your car. What a cozy spot to drift back in time. Open weekends only.

There are other charming little towns and villages along the coast but a few miles west of Crail. Depending on your time, you can visit some of them during your day at Crail.